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Single jersey and double knit are the two most common knit fabric structures. They serve different purposes and understanding the difference helps you choose the right construction for your garment. Mibein manufactures both single jersey and double knit fabrics for global apparel brands.
Two Essential Knit Structures
The difference between single jersey and double knit is in the number of needle beds used during knitting and how the loops interlock. This structural difference affects everything from weight to stretch to edge finish. The Wikipedia article on jersey fabric explains the basic principles of this knit construction.
Single Jersey Explained
Single jersey is the simplest, most common knit structure: Made on one needle bed. The face side shows vertical wales (columns of V-shaped loops). The back side shows horizontal courses (rows) and has a different texture. Single jersey is lightweight, stretchy, and has a soft drape. It curls at the edges when cut (a characteristic to consider in garment production). 120-180 GSM is typical for single jersey fabrics.
Double Knit Explained
Double knit is made using two needle beds, creating a fabric with two interlocked layers. The most common type is interlock. Double knit is heavier (180-300 GSM), more stable, and does not curl at the edges. It has a smooth surface on both sides. It is more durable than single jersey but less stretchy. Double knit is often used for more structured garments like polo shirts, jackets, and skirts.
Comparison Table
| Feature | Single Jersey | Double Knit |
|---|---|---|
| Needle beds | One | Two |
| Typical GSM | 120-180 | 180-300 |
| Edge curl | Yes | No |
| Stretch | 20-40% | 15-30% |
| Both sides same | No (face ≠ back) | Yes |
| Durability | Good | Better |
| Cost per yard | Lower | Higher |
| Best for | T-shirts, activewear | Polo shirts, jackets |
Weight and GSM
Single jersey ranges from 100-200 GSM, with 150-180 GSM being the standard for T-shirts. Double knit ranges from 180-350 GSM, with 200-250 GSM being typical for polo shirts and structured garments. The weight difference is due to the additional yarn required to create the second layer in double knit. Our moisture-wicking fabrics are available in both constructions.
Edge Curl: The Jersey Factor
Single jersey naturally curls at cut edges because of the tension imbalance between face and back loops. This affects cutting and sewing — patterns must account for curl allowance. Double knit does not curl at all, making it easier to cut and sew. For manufacturers, double knit’s stability can reduce production time and waste.
Best Applications
Single jersey: T-shirts, tank tops, sports tops, dresses, light activewear, liners. Double knit: Polo shirts, skirts, dresses, jackets, structured activewear, golf apparel, travel clothing. Premium polo shirts are typically made from double pique, a specific type of double knit. Explore Mibein’s stretch fabrics for both constructions.
Cost Comparison
Double knit typically costs 20-40% more than single jersey of comparable quality. The reasons: more yarn is used per square meter (higher weight), slower knitting speed (two needle beds), and more complex finishing. For garments where double knit’s advantages matter (stability, no curl, both sides finished), the extra cost is justified.
Which to Choose?
Choose single jersey for lightweight, stretchy garments where cost is a factor. Choose double knit for structured garments where stability and a clean finish on both sides matter. Many brands use both: single jersey for active T-shirts and double knit for polo shirts and structured tops.
FAQ
What is the difference between single jersey and double knit?
Single jersey is knitted on one needle bed, is lighter, stretchier, and curls at edges. Double knit uses two needle beds, is heavier, more stable, and does not curl.
Which is better for T-shirts?
Single jersey is the traditional choice for T-shirts due to its lightweight and soft drape. Double knit is better for more structured tops.
Does double knit cost more?
Yes, double knit typically costs 20-40% more than single jersey due to higher material usage and slower production.
What is interlock fabric?
Interlock is the most common type of double knit fabric. It creates a smooth, flat surface on both sides with excellent stretch recovery.
Both Constructions, One Source
Single jersey and double knit fabrics from a trusted manufacturer. Mibein produces both constructions in a wide range of weights, fibers, and finishes. Request swatches and pricing.