What Is AATCC Testing for Performance Fabrics?
AATCC test methods are the quality language of the textile industry. Knowing the key tests helps you verify fabric performance — and avoid paying for claims that were never tested.
AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) develops the standard test methods used to verify textile quality worldwide. Understanding AATCC testing lets you evaluate fabric performance objectively. Mibein Textile conducts full AATCC and lab testing on all performance fabric programs.
What Is AATCC?
The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) develops voluntary standards for evaluating textiles — covering colorfastness, shrinkage, physical properties, and performance. AATCC test methods are referenced globally by brands, labs, and suppliers. When a spec sheet says “colorfastness 4-5,” that rating only means something if you know which AATCC method produced it. This guide decodes the methods that matter most for performance fabrics.
Why Testing Matters for Buyers
Colorfastness Tests
Colorfastness measures resistance to fading or transfer. Key methods: AATCC 61 (colorfastness to laundering), AATCC 8 (crocking/rubbing — color transfer to other surfaces), AATCC 15 (perspiration), AATCC 16 (light). Ratings run 1-5 (or 1-8 for light), with 4-5 considered good for most apparel. For performance and sportswear, laundering and perspiration fastness are critical — garments face sweat and frequent washing.
Shrinkage Testing
Shrinkage testing (AATCC 135 for dimensional change) measures how a fabric changes after laundering. The sample is washed and dried under controlled conditions, and the change in dimensions is recorded as a percentage. For knits, acceptable shrinkage is typically under 3-5% in both directions. High shrinkage produces garments that don’t fit after washing — a leading cause of returns. Check shrinkage on the finished, garment-ready fabric, not the greige.
Pilling and Abrasion
Pilling — those little balls of fiber on the surface — degrades a garment’s look quickly. AATCC 127 (Martindale) or AATCC 124 test resistance to pilling by abrading the fabric and rating surface change on a 1-5 scale (5 = no change). For activewear, which faces constant friction, pilling resistance of 4+ is the quality bar. Abrasion resistance (cycles before wear-through) is also tested for durability-critical products.
Moisture Management Tests
For performance fabrics, moisture management is measured with AATCC 195 (liquid moisture management properties). This test measures how quickly a fabric wicks moisture, its one-way transport, and drying characteristics — producing a detailed performance profile rather than a single number. Other relevant methods: ASTM D737 (air permeability) and AATCC 22 (water repellency spray test). These tests turn “moisture-wicking” into measurable data.
Key AATCC Methods Table
| Method | What It Tests | Good Result |
|---|---|---|
| AATCC 61 | Colorfastness to laundering | 4-5 (excellent) |
| AATCC 8 | Crocking (color transfer) | 4+ dry, 3+ wet |
| AATCC 15 | Colorfastness to perspiration | 4+ |
| AATCC 16 | Colorfastness to light | 4+ (fade resistance) |
| AATCC 135 | Dimensional change (shrinkage) | <3-5% |
| AATCC 124 | Appearance after laundering | 4+ (no pilling) |
| AATCC 195 | Liquid moisture management | Good-excellent profile |
How to Verify Test Claims
FAQ
What does AATCC stand for?
AATCC is the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists — the organization that develops standard test methods for textile quality and performance.
What AATCC tests should I request for sportswear?
Prioritize: AATCC 61 (laundering fastness), AATCC 135 (shrinkage), AATCC 124 (appearance/pilling), and AATCC 195 (moisture management) for performance fabrics.
What is a good colorfastness rating?
For most apparel, a rating of 4-5 on laundering and perspiration fastness is considered good to excellent. Below 3.5, fading or transfer is likely to be visible.
How do I know if a supplier’s test report is reliable?
Verify the lab is ISO 17025 accredited, the report covers your exact fabric and color, and results were produced recently. Prefer independent third-party testing for critical claims.